Quantitative GMO testing of organic cotton is making significant headway
Hohenstein is an impartial, neutral business in the fields of testing, certification and research with a focus on textiles. It offers a wide variety of services to companies all along the supply chain. With its over 75 years of experience and textile specialisation, Hohenstein sets set trends and standards. In an interview with Fibre2Fashion, Vinod Kumar, Managing Director – India, Sri Lanka and Middle East, and Global Business Director (OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON & OEKO-TEX ECO PASSPORT) elaborates on the recently launched OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON certification.
What strategies and incentives are Hohenstein India implementing to encourage more farmers to engage in organic cotton cultivation?
- Organic cotton sales in any form bring premium and value to the whole supply chain starting from farmers to the whole textile industry. Hohenstein is bringing all stakeholders together with knowledge sharing and training programmes at all levels.
- Hohenstein is connecting with different farm groups and associations via ginners who buy cotton from individual farmers.
- Hohenstein is organising mega events such as Global Sustainability Conferences in India and across the world in which stakeholders of the organic cotton fraternity are invited. There are interactive sessions planned in which the queries of participants are well addressed.
What are the primary environmental benefits of organic cotton cultivation compared to conventional cotton farming?
Organic cotton cultivation offers several environmental benefits compared to conventional cotton farming. Firstly, it eliminates the use of synthetic fertilisers and pesticides, reducing soil and water contamination. Secondly, organic methods help to maintain soil fertility over a longer period. Finally, the absence of harmful chemicals makes the entire cultivation process safer and more sustainable, both for human health and from an environmental standpoint.
How are organic cotton products differentiated from conventionally grown cotton products in the global market?
Certified organic cotton products (yarn, fibres, fabrics, home textiles and garments) are provided a specific label and logo as differentiators compared to products that are not based on organic cotton. So, these products are easily traceable in the global supply chain, ensuring transparency, originality, and trust in organic materials.
How does the OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON certification process align with India’s national standards and regulations related to organic farming and textile production?
In India, the Agricultural and Processed Food Products Export Development Authority (APEDA) is the governing body responsible for regulating the development of organic products. Its specific programme for organic cotton is known as the National Programme for Organic Production (NPOP). OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON aligns with NPOP by accepting the Transaction Certificates (TC) issued at the farm level by the relevant NPOP-certifying body.
Can you detail the cost-saving benefits and efficiencies that the OEKO-TEX Modular System offers to Indian textile manufacturers?
The OEKO-TEX Modular System offers significant cost-saving benefits and efficiencies for Indian textile manufacturers by reducing the duplication of tests at various stages. If the input materials, such as cotton or dyes and auxiliaries, are already OEKO-TEX certified (known as ‘Input Control’), they are not fully re-tested during the ‘Output Control’ stage. For instance, if chemicals certified by OEKO-TEX ECO PASSPORT are used in the production of an article applying for OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 certification, these chemicals are not subjected to 100 per cent re-testing at the product stage. This approach lowers the overall cost for applicants seeking an Output Control certificate.
What are the common challenges faced by farmers when transitioning from conventional to organic cotton farming, and how can they be addressed?
First and foremost, acquiring the correct technical expertise for organic farming poses a significant challenge. Farming is the foundational stage in the entire supply chain, and the education level of farmers plays a crucial role. The concept of organic cotton involves many intricacies that can be difficult to grasp. Even for experts, explaining and implementing the appropriate types of seeds, soil, nutrients, and insect protection can be challenging. Therefore, transitioning from conventional to organic cotton is a complex task in itself.
Secondly, several environmental factors must align for a successful transition: water availability, biodiversity, soil fertility, and climate. If any of these factors are not favourable, the transition becomes difficult.
Lastly, the transformation to fully organic land takes at least 3-4 years. During this period, farmers must adhere to stringent guidelines, such as completely avoiding synthetic fertilisers and pesticides. Each step of the transition presents its own set of challenges, making the journey towards true recognition as an organic cotton farm a complicated one.
How does the global demand for organic cotton compare to conventional cotton, and what factors are driving consumer preferences towards organic options?
Global demand for organic cotton is on the rise, driven by increased consumer awareness of sustainability issues. According to a 2021 report, the global organic cotton market is projected to grow from $637.1 million in 2021 to an astonishing $6.730.9 billion by 2028, with a Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) of 40 per cent during the forecast period. This rapid growth suggests that consumers are swiftly gravitating towards organic options, seeking safer and more sustainable products made from organic cotton.
How is Hohenstein working with retailers and brands to increase the availability and visibility of OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON products in Indian stores?
Hohenstein collaborates with more than 100 global brands and retailers through the OEKO-TEX Modular System. To raise awareness about OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON, we continually organise training sessions, webinars, and roadshows targeted at brands and industry associations. Additionally, we invite relevant brand stakeholders to our global conferences for mass knowledge dissemination. Notable examples include the Hohenstein Global Textile Conference in Gurgaon and Ahmedabad, scheduled for 2023, as well as awareness training sessions with Cotton Connect and other training events with global brands.
What outreach and education efforts are underway to increase consumer awareness and demand for OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON products in India?
Hohenstein is continuously engaging with various groups in the textile supply chain, such as ginners, spinners, and farm associations, particularly in major organic cotton-producing regions like Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, and Maharashtra. In addition to this outreach, Hohenstein organises training sessions specifically designed for stakeholders and industry associations to increase awareness about OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON. Furthermore, relevant stakeholders are invited to global conferences for mass knowledge dissemination, as previously mentioned.
What are the various certifications and standards available for organic cotton globally, and how do they ensure the authenticity and quality of organic cotton products?
The major standards are OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON, Textile Exchange and GOTS. They are purportedly certifying organic cotton products based upon whether the applied material is truly (100 per cent organic) or blended organic based upon GMO testing (qualitative and quantitative). OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON is the standard which is based upon quantitative testing of GMO with German technology at Hohenstein. There are global forums such as Organic Cotton Accelerator (OCA), Cotton Connect, and Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) which are aimed at promoting the concept of organic cotton.
The recently launched OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON is gaining popularity and making significant headway. It sets itself apart by introducing quantitative GMO testing, as opposed to qualitative methods, and by offering the trusted standards associated with the OEKO-TEX brand.
How does Hohenstein ensure the complete traceability of OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON from the field to the finished product within the Indian market?
Hohenstein concentrates on two key aspects to ensure complete traceability of OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON within the Indian market: Chain of Custody (COC) coverage and changes in ownership. The Chain of Custody stipulates that each stakeholder in the supply chain, from the garment manufacturer to preceding entities like weavers, spinners, and ginners, must obtain their own OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON certificate for the end product to be certified. This approach ensures effective traceability.
Additionally, whenever a change in ownership occurs, such as when a ginner sells to a different spinning organisation, a Transaction Certificate (TC) must be obtained by the seller within six weeks after the batch is sold. The TC accounts for the Mass Balance of the specific batch or lot, thereby ensuring transparency.
As an additional informative note, the entry point for OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON certification in the textile supply chain is at the ginning level. From the farm to the ginning process, IFOAM standards are applicable.
How does the ORGANIC COTTON certification process differentiate between minor contamination and intentional mixing with conventional cotton within the Indian context?
In the Indian context, OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON employs a system of quantitative GMO testing. The certification process allows for a maximum of 10 per cent GMO content, a figure determined through extensive studies by OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON on likely, but unavoidable, contaminations in organic cotton. Any intentional mixing of conventional and organic cotton is expected to result in GMO content significantly exceeding this 10 per cent threshold, making it easier to identify.
How does the annual quality audit by an OEKO-TEX institute in India function, and what are the key focuses during these audits to ensure operational quality assurance for ORGANIC COTTON?
The annual audit for OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON in India occurs before the certification process is completed. During the audit, documentation is verified, and the traceability of the product is confirmed. The implementation of systems related to quality, environmental standards, and Occupational Health and Safety Assessment Series (OHSAS) is also reviewed. For quality assurance, random lots of certified material are selected and traced back to verify the information provided by the applicant during the certification process. As a standard practice, samples are also taken for control testing during these audits. This serves as a ‘random check’ for the certified material.
What are the key factors that set OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON certification apart from other organic cotton certifications available in India?
- OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON uses quantitative GMO testing which is more accurate and precise than qualitative testing.
- OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON is part of robust OEKO-TEX Modular System certification programme, in addition to GMO testing. This takes care of any harmful substances that could be present in the applied article.
- OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON transaction certificate system is centralised and managed solely by our EU office. Our EU office issues the TC to the applicant.
- In OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON, the audit takes place before the certification is issued by our own auditors. This ensures that there is implementation of required systems at the facility of manufacturing.
How does Hohenstein India plan to further innovate and develop the ORGANIC COTTON certification process to adapt to evolving market trends and consumer preferences in India?
Hohenstein India is exploring opportunities to integrate other OEKO-TEX certification systems, such as OEKO-TEX STeP and MADE IN GREEN, with OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON certification. By doing so, the scope of OEKO-TEX ORGANIC COTTON certification will be broadened. As a result of this integration, there could be common audits across these different certification types. Hohenstein India Private Limited is actively investigating these possibilities.
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