We have been successful in making our brand sustainable
Rooted in the rich tapestry of Indian culture and heritage, the artisans at Okhai possess inherent talent and mastery of traditional skills. They infuse their creations with exquisite designs unique to their respective communities. In a conversation with Fibre2Fashion, CEO and Creative Director Manorath Dhillon delves into how Okhai’s initiatives have become a beacon of hope for rural artisans and their traditions.
What are the key trends currently shaping the demand for handcrafted products in both domestic and international markets?
Globally, there has been a steady rise in conscious consumerism, which is not only pushing big fast fashion players to be more sustainable but also helping smaller sustainable brands to gain more recognition. Along with this, there is a demand for authenticity and supply chain traceability. Consumers want to know what goes on behind the scenes so that they can make better choices with their purchases. Domestically and globally, there is also a growing interest in DIY (do-it-yourself) culture, supporting small local businesses, and knowing who made your clothes. With these trends, brands are able to use social media to tell their stories authentically directly through the lens of the artisans. Domestically, consumers pride themselves on supporting ‘made in India’ initiatives.
How has the rise of e-commerce and online marketplaces impacted the traditional handicraft industry in India?
E-commerce, along with the rise in competitive domestic logistics partners, has helped connect rural communities to markets worldwide. The demand for handicrafts has seen a significant boost not just domestically but also internationally. It has effectively changed the way we consume and the face of the handicraft industry in India. According to a market research study by the IMARC group, in 2022 the market reached $3,968 million. Looking forward, the IMARC Group expects the market to reach $6,218.4 million by 2028, exhibiting a growth rate (CAGR) of 7.7 per cent during 2023-2028. E-commerce has a major role to play here.
What is the role of government and non-profit organisations in supporting and promoting artisan communities in India?
Initiatives such as ODOP (One District One Product) help connect organisations to artisans and to each other. A lot can be achieved at a policy level too at an agricultural stage of raw material and by adopting ‘handmade only’ initiatives.
Could you tell us about the origins of Okhai and the vision behind its creation?
The story of Okhai originates from the region of Okhamandal in Gujarat, which faced a severe four-year drought in the late 1990s, depriving communities of their sole source of income derived from agriculture. However, amidst this hardship, the women of the region continued to practice their centuries-old craft of intricate Rabari embroidery. Led by Rami Ben and a group of artisans, they realised that despite the challenges, they still possessed their invaluable craft—a heritage of exquisite, intricate embroideries that could be transformed into products for sale.
The journey began with the artisans creating and selling their products locally in markets. Over time, they expanded their reach by participating in exhibitions, collaborating with designers to understand market demand and explore contemporary approaches to traditional crafts. Through these efforts and by training more women in the art of embroidery, Okhai evolved to sell its products through its website and eventually establish a flagship store in Kala Ghoda, Mumbai.
When asked about their skills, the women attributed their expertise to generations of practice passed down through their families. The tradition of embroidery was ingrained in them from a young age, with inspiration drawn from their mothers or other skilled practitioners they observed.
The vision driving Okhai was twofold: to empower women artisans from rural communities, providing them with the skills and confidence to earn a livelihood through their own industry and initiative, and to revive traditional crafts that were at risk of extinction. Through their work, Okhai not only supports economic empowerment but also preserves cultural heritage and fosters sustainable livelihoods for generations to come.
How does the brand select rural artisans to collaborate with, and what criteria are utilised in the selection process?
Artisans with existing skills either reach out or are identified through the network of other artisans. These groups undergo a series of workshops and training sessions to assess their skill levels. Based on their proficiency, artisans are categorised into A, B, or C groups.
Group A comprises artisans with extensive experience who excel in intricate embroidery work. Group B consists of artisans proficient in a range of stitches, capable of medium to heavy embroidery. Group C includes artisans who are relatively new to the craft and possess basic stitching skills, including mirror work, which is a key embroidery technique used by Okhai.
Continuous training is provided to enhance the artisans’ skills, enabling them to progress to higher groups and improve the quality of their work. This progression opens up better earning opportunities for them. The primary criterion for selection is the artisans’ willingness to learn, grow, and pursue a career in the craft. Through this approach, Okhai fosters a supportive environment for artisans to thrive and succeed in their craft.
Could you elaborate on the specific traditional skills and crafts that these artisans bring to Okhai’s products?
Okhai has cultivated a community of 30,000 skilled artisans proficient in crafts passed down through generations. These artisans hail from various regions across the country, each renowned for its distinct craft traditions. From Rabari embroidery in Mithapur to Ahir embroidery in Kutch, and from Ajrakh block printing in Ajrakhpur to Kashidakari work in Kashmir, Okhai celebrates a diverse array of traditional techniques.
In addition to these, artisans also specialise in hand-painted Madhubani from Bihar, Silver Filigree work from Cuttack, Crochet work from Bihar, Macrame work from Rajasthan, Grass Basketry from West Bengal, Orissa, UP, and Kashmir utilising locally and sustainably sourced materials such as Sabai, Sikki, Bamboo, willow wicker, Sitalpati, and Moonj. Other crafts include leather work from Rajasthan, hand-hammered copper and brass objects from Punjab, extra weft weaving techniques from Orissa for sarees, Maheswari from MP, Lambani embroidery from Karnataka and Tamil Nadu, Maniabandha ikat from Orissa, and many more.
How do you balance maintaining traditional artisan techniques with incorporating contemporary designs?
One of the pivotal initiatives at Okhai has been the Design Transformation project, aimed at bridging the gap between the preferences of urban markets and the traditional creations of artisans. Recognising that the current generation was not purchasing products in line with their heritage, Okhai adopted a sustainable design-led approach.
Through this approach, artisans, designers, and marketers collaborate to develop collections that not only drive economic growth but also foster artistic development among the artisans. Extensive research into market trends and customer needs informs the creation process.
Artisans and designers work hand in hand to infuse traditional stitches and motifs into contemporary silhouettes and colours, resulting in designs that are both rooted in tradition and yet modern and accessible.
Can you walk us through the creative process behind the brand’s designs, from conception to production?
The artisans and designers collaborate to develop themes for their work, drawing inspiration from architectural monuments to abstract forms for artistic expression. These themes guide the selection of craft and embroidery techniques required for each collection, fostering artistic growth among the artisans. This strategic decision ensures that all artisans receive sufficient work opportunities.
In some instances, Okhai collaborates with artisans from different regions, introducing new art forms to the world and increasing visibility for the artisans involved. Okhai follows a decentralised manufacturing model. Raw materials are sourced from weavers across the country and brought to the Mithapur centre for cutting, marking, and bundling. These materials are then distributed to villages where artisans work on pieces based on their skill level.
More complex embroideries are handled by master craftswomen, while those with lower skill levels undergo upgraded training programmes. Once embroidered, the pieces are returned to another set of artisans for stitching and finishing before being sent to the warehouse for distribution through various sales channels.
This decentralised approach ensures that women can work from their villages without having to leave their families or primary occupations, such as agriculture. This sustainable model provides opportunities for hundreds of women to earn income from the comfort of their homes and communities. While some choose to work at the Mithapur centre, a thriving community of women continues to gather daily for work opportunities.
What are the challenges faced by rural artisans in India, and how does Okhai help to address these challenges?
The biggest problem faced by rural artisans is access to the market, both in terms of placing their products effectively and understanding what will sell in cities or urban spaces. Okhai provides a platform for their products and relays data and analysis back to the artisans, so they know what works, what does not, how to price, what content to create etc. Artisans interact directly with the customers and get feedback as well.
How do you ensure fair compensation and working conditions for the artisans involved with Okhai?
The artisans are compensated based on either the hours they invest in creating each piece or the area covered by embroidery. The pricing model undergoes revision each time a new design is launched. We ensure that each design incorporates both basic stitches and intricate embroidery to ensure that each group receives adequate work.
Sabai Ben, who heads the Vakol Mahila Mandal, personally visits the artisans’ homes in all the villages to distribute work and collect finished pieces. She meticulously records the time each artisan spends working to ensure that none of their efforts go to waste. Artisans can earn up to ₹20,000 based on the time they invest. Importantly, the pricing model is established by the artisans themselves.
In what ways has the brand contributed to the economic and social empowerment of women artisans?
In its earlier days, at Okhai, the artisans were very new to the idea of being trained or having to come to the centre. The women had never left their villages. Slowly, as more consistent work started coming to them and their incomes increased, they were able to send their children to school, and eventually, many of them became the primary breadwinners of their families. This gave these women a sense of pride and equity. Today, they travel the country by themselves, representing Okhai, and drive vehicles to get to work. With this exposure, they have developed public-speaking skills and have been able to make a prominent place for themselves among urban people in modern cities. They use technology to keep themselves updated, have been educated about finance, and are now using banking apps through which they are able to fulfil personal aspirations with their savings. The best part is that the first generation that was sent to school through the earnings of these women has now finished school and college and has started to work with their artisan mothers, helping them understand technology better.
There are many stories of change and growth. Here are two such stories: In 2021, one of our quality check artisans, Bharmi Ben, set a goal for herself to learn and buy a scooter so that she could drop and pick up her kid from school and reach work more easily. By 2022, she learned to ride a scooter and bought one herself through her savings. Now, she proudly rides around with her kid. In the second instance, Sabaiben, who lives in Arambhada village in Mithapur and heads the Vakol Mahila Mandal, was able to convince the Panchayat of the village to get a road built outside her house.
How do artisan-based brands balance the need for scalability with the preservation of traditional craftsmanship and techniques?
This is a tricky one and a lot of strategy is needed to have a balanced supply chain and value chain. Brands have to work two years in advance and have to rely on a lot on data and trends to be able to create adequate inventories and good design. One of Okhai’s major yearly projects is to work on the pipeline of future years while keeping all factors and stakeholders in alignment. The pipeline has to ensure adequate work for artisans and meet the demands of the market.
How does the integration of modern design elements with traditional crafts influence consumer perception and market demand for artisan products?
This was a major gap for decades, which is why the demand for handcrafted products saw a decline in the 1980s, 1990s, and early 2000s. Okhai, along with other players in the market, were able to fill this gap, and this was a game-changer. In the last five years or so, the number of players working on the exact model has increased by 10x. Consumers want a contemporary product that can easily fit into their lives, all while indirectly helping someone send their kid to school through their conscious choices. It is a win-win.
What are Okhai’s future plans for expansion and reaching more artisans and markets?
Okhai is already the first and largest e-commerce platform exclusively selling contemporary, genuine, and 100 per cent authentic handcrafted fashion and lifestyle products made by artisan communities from across the country to customers worldwide who seek sustainable crafts rooted in heritage and made in India. It started with a small group of artisans from Gujarat, but today 30,000 artisans are benefiting through Okhai. These artisan communities are spread across the country and are skilled in different crafts such as handweaving, block printing, basketry, and embroidery styles, all of which vary from region to region. Each of these crafts has a rich history and legacy of crafters.
The future vision for Okhai is that every artisan who has a beautiful product to share with the world should be able to do so through Okhai so that the craft communities are not displaced to find jobs in cities. We see a future where Okhai becomes a household name for beautiful sustainable fashion. Since Okhai began, women artisans from the Rabari community of Mithapur who have never travelled alone in their village have travelled across the country for exhibitions and events. With the constant hard work and efforts of the team, we wish to conduct these exhibitions globally so that the artisans can travel worldwide. Since Okhai is a sustainable brand, we have been successful in making fashion circular, and we wish to spread awareness of buying handcrafted and sustainable pieces among everyone.
