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Interview with Jason Kent

Jason Kent
Jason Kent
CEO
British Textile Machinery Association (BTMA)
British Textile Machinery Association (BTMA)

The industry is moving towards the fully connected factory
Founded in 1940, the British Textile Machinery Association (BTMA) actively promotes British textile machinery manufacturers and their products to the world. The non-profit organisation acts as a bridge between its members and the increasingly diverse industries within the textile manufacturing sector. Ahead of the important Techtextil exhibition in Frankfurt from April 23-26, Fibre2Fashion speaks to BTMA CEO Jason Kent.

What are the current trends and emerging technologies in the textile machinery industry that are shaping the future of textile manufacturing?

I think nobody would argue that sustainability is now driving the agenda. The need to establish viable recycling supply chains in Europe was a major trend of 2023 and will become even more important this year as the EU imposes an end to the landfilling or incineration of textile waste at the start of 2025. Traceability is another major trend, and both of these will be greatly assisted by further digitalisation across the supply chain. The reshoring of parts of the supply chain and also the establishment of microfactories are other major themes which are likely to assume even more significance this year, as the shipping of products from Asia to Europe and North America once again becomes problematic, in terms of costs, logistics and lead times. Manufacturers are also looking to make energy, water, and raw materials savings wherever possible of course.
 

How has the shift towards sustainability and eco-friendly practices impacted the development and demand for new textile machinery?

There is greater pressure for accountability and with extended producer responsibility (EPR) on the horizon, the market is looking to our members for new solutions under the umbrella of driving up efficiencies. The market is also looking for ease of operation and a higher degree of automation in technology, as a result of the general industry-wide depletion of skilled workers.

In the context of global competition, what strategies are textile machinery manufacturers employing to maintain and enhance their market position?

It is all about offering an attractive return on investment (ROI) and ensuring technology is fit for future purpose. Retrofitting is another strategy our members are using quite extensively, including Adaptive Control Solutions, Garnett Controls, Streat Drycom and Tatham. Many new technologies are being developed that will do much to reduce resource consumption, but the reality is that faced with extremely tight margins, many textile companies are not in a position to invest in new capitally intensive projects. In the past, outdated but mechanically sound machines would simply be scrapped, with few other options, but this has now completely changed with new drives, controls, and sensors. BTMA members can offer many options via upgrades and automation and the cost-effective longevity of retrofitted machines makes sound and sustainable sense.

Can you discuss the role of automation and digitalisation in transforming the textile machinery sector and the benefits it brings to manufacturers?

The industry is moving towards the fully connected factory, but we are not there yet. Individual machines may be fully digitised, but they are not talking to each other and providing integrated feedback loops and extending the possibilities for seamless production via machine learning. That is the journey we are on.

Can you share insights into the challenges and opportunities facing UK manufacturers of technical textile machinery in the current global market?

here are growing opportunities in a number of rapidly expanding markets with exponential growth. Members of BTMA are increasingly involved in projects aimed at the further development of composites, for example, and new sectors are arising such as the need for new energy storage and transportation, or the electrification of vehicles. Cygnet Texkimp is one member company that is now heavily involved in the supply of automatic winding and handling technologies for composite reinforcements, while testing equipment specialist Roaches International has successfully expanded into autoclaves for the sector. Optima 3D is another BTMA member company having success in the composites reinforcement sector with its advanced weaving systems. 
In addition, BTMA is a member of Composites UK and will be supporting its first International Composites Summit to be held in Milton Keynes, UK this September, and we also have ties with the National Composites Centre in Bristol and the Advanced Manufacturing Research Centre in Sheffield, linking together networks of companies at all stages of this supply chain, along with key universities and research centres.
It is about building on core competencies, surveying the horizon, and looking for opportunities. Meanwhile, As the demand for raw materials outstrips supply there are increasing opportunities not only to develop new materials and processes but to add new science to existing technologies in order to reclaim used materials.

THow is the BTMA navigating the challenges and opportunities presented by industrial digitalisation and sustainability in the textile industry?

We are completely member-led in this respect, and there are a host of differing approaches being taken by BTMA member companies. The digitised dyeing and finishing systems of Alchemie Technology, for example, are entirely disruptive, enabling a significant step-change by slashing the use of water, wastewater, energy, and raw materials for a significant reduction in CO2 emissions in what has traditionally been a very resource intensive sector. Then there are companies like Fibre Extrusion Technologies (FET), which works closely in collaboration with its customers on the development of specific polymers for niche applications – over 70 to date – and the bespoke systems to successfully produce them.
Other BTMA members such as James Heal, Roaches, Shelton Vision and Verivide are very strong in the field of automated fibre, textile and garment testing or fault detection, and have established strong ties with major brands and OEMs and their suppliers over many years.

Can you share how the BTMA has evolved over its 80 years to remain relevant in the ever-changing textile machinery sector?

Our focus has always been on anticipating the needs of our members and being aware of and adapting to change as it happens. In general, companies are a lot more open and transparent in their responses to the changing landscape than they have been in the past, and there is a real appetite for collaboration. Plans are underway this year, for example, to embark on a collaborative microfactory project that will involve 10-15 of our members. Another example is the succession of collaborations BTMA members have been involved in as part of the UK’s £5.4 million Future Fashion Factory initiative.

What role does the BTMA play in addressing the skills deficit within the textile engineering industry, and can you provide examples of successful outcomes?

I am proud to say that in September last year we established a first-of-its-kind UK apprenticeship training course for textile engineering technicians in West Yorkshire with Calderdale College and the Textile Centre of Excellence (TcoE) in Huddersfield. The immediate success of this bespoke Level 3 apprenticeship course reflects a resurgence in the industry locally, and more generally in the UK. When developing the programme, we wanted to ensure it was as collaborative as possible, not just between ourselves, Calderdale College and the TcoE, but also with the employers directly benefitting from its delivery. We are really proud of the end result, which is a truly industry-led course that will provide exciting and fulfilling career paths for young people, as well as bolstering the sector with additional technical expertise and skills. 
As part of the BTMA’s objective of changing perceptions about the textile engineering and machinery industry, I am also a STEM (science, technology, engineering and mathematics) Ambassador visiting schools and the community in the North West of England. This month I will be addressing an assembly of 200 schools at Manchester’s Museum of Science and Industry, because it is vital to change the perception of the industry and demonstrate to the future workforce all that is involved. It is a highly skilled and technology-driven sector with a lot to be proud of.

In what ways does the BTMA collaborate with industry-leading bodies to enhance manufacturing and engineering excellence in the textile sector?

We are actively growing our network of members. As previously mentioned, our companies have been heavily involved in Future Fashion Factory projects and the BTMA is also now a member of both Composites UK and the International Textile Machinery Federation (ITMF). Again, it is about widening our base of industry expertise. 
Also of significance is our membership of Export Partners UK which has the ear of UK Government at lobbying level for trade associations. This is a powerful advantage, especially when organising delegations and national pavilions for overseas exhibitions.

What strategies has the BTMA implemented to promote UK companies in the global textile machinery and manufacturing industry?

Industry representation is why we existed in the first place and remains our primary function. Recently we have widened our approach to media coverage through collaborations with partners such as Fibre2Fashion and are taking full advantage of the opportunities provided by social media channels. Assistance in all aspects of representation at the major exhibitions is also a significant part of our work of course.

Could you elaborate on the ‘Member experience initiative’ and how it aims to create value for BTMA members?

It is about bringing our members together face-to-face at regular thematic events which incorporate networking, problem solving and road mapping at the textile machinery industry level. This year we are also introducing a wider level of membership to bring in associates and academic institutions in order to enrich the knowledge base and expertise within the association.

How does the BTMA support SMEs within the UK textile machinery sector, and what specific initiatives are in place to aid their growth?

We provide support and collaboration via access to funding, showcasing opportunities, global representation, training, and initiatives. We are here to join the dots and not spend time and resources to try and reinvent the wheel. We are facing the same challenges across the entire industry, globally in fact, and the BTMA strives to bring together the “best in class” in terms of growth opportunities for its members.
Published on: 01/04/2024

DISCLAIMER: All views and opinions expressed in this column are solely of the interviewee, and they do not reflect in any way the opinion of Fibre2Fashion.com.

This interview was first published in the Apr 2024 edition of the print magazine

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